조완구 Wan Goo Cho

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Abstract

In this review, the use of air bubbles in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations was discussed. The foam bubbles show different characteristics depending on the foaming agents and foam generating devices. The foam bubbles are generated in the form of dispersion of gas bubbles in a solvent. The assessment of stability and rheological properties of bubbles are the starting point for the formulation to be used. Pharmaceutical and cosmetic uses of bubbles are substantially growing, and the foam formulations of drugs can be used for rectal, vaginal, and dermal symptoms. The foam formulation is used in hair mousse, makeup foundation, and sunscreen cosmetics in basic cosmetics. Recently, a lot of studies and patents have been filed in stabilization of active ingredients and delivery of the active ingredient in terms of foam formulations. In the future, foam formulations are expected to be used as novel cosmeceutical formulations.

Key Words

foam, cosmetic, formulation, pharmaceutical, delivery

김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 이혜진 Hye Jin Lee , 임명선 Myoung Sun Lim , 박민아 Min A Park , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In our previous studies, the antioxidant, anti-aging, and antibacterial activities of Persicaria hydropipier L. extract, and the moisturizing effect of cream containing P. hydropipier extract were investigated. In this study, the cellular protective effects of P. hydropipier extract and isoquercitrin, main component from P. hydropipier in ¹O₂-induced photohemolysis of human erythrocytes and ultraviolet B (UVB)-exposed HaCaT cells were investigated. Liposomes such as ethosome and elastic liposome for enhanced transdermal delivery were prepared. Size, loading efficiency, stability, and cumulative permeated amounts of ethosomes and elastic liposomes were evaluated. P. hydropipier extract and isoquercitrin showed more prominent cellular protective effect than (+)-α-tocopherol, known as lipid antioxidant at 5 μg/mL. P. hydropipier extract didn't show any characteristics of cytotoxicity at 50 μg/mL. When HaCaT cells were exposed to a single large dose (400 mJ/㎠) of UVB, the extract protected the cells against UVB radiation in a concentration dependent manner (12.5 ~ 50 μg/mL). Cell viability of HaCaT cells exposed to UVB 400 mJ/㎠ was increased by treatment with P. hydropipier extract or isoquercitrin from 36 % (cell viability of positve control groups) to 90 % (cell viability of P. hydropipier extract or isoquercitrin- treated groups). The size of 0.04 % P. hydropiper extract loaded ethosomes was 173.0 nm and the loading efficiency was 55.58 %. 0.04 % P. hydropiper extract loaded ethosomes were stable with as monodisperse particles for 1 week. The ethosome exhibited more skin permeability than general liposome and ethanol solution. The optimal ratio of lipid to surfactant (Tego^® care 450) of 0.1 % P. hydropiper extract loaded elastic liposomes was observed to be 95 : 5. Vesicle size of 0.1 % P. hydropiper extract loaded elastic liposome was 176.5 nm. The deformability index of the elastic liposome was 16.4. The loading efficiency was 68.8 %. The elastic liposome containing P. hydropiper extract showed more skin permeability than liposome without surfactant (Tego^® care 450).

Key Words

Persicaria hydropipier L., antioxidant, ultraviolet radiation, ethosome, elastic liposome

김민기 Minkee Kim , 정혜진 Hyejin Jeong , 조준철 Juncheol Cho

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Abstract

An effective, environmentally friendly analytic methods using gas chromatography with mass spectrometric detector (GC-MSD) have been developed for the quantitative analysis of trace phthalate levels in cosmetics such as nail lacquer and hair spray. Since such cosmetics are largely comprised of organic solvents, conventional clean-up methods that have been widely used for phthalate analyses are in adequate. In addition, analysis of trace phthalate levels is notorious for its sensitivity to contamination, which causes high analytical values. A direct sample dilution method using an organic solvent was adopted to the sample preparation process to determine the exact amounts of phthalates and simultaneously avoid the high risk of secondary contamination. The method has many advantages including high accuracy, sensitivity, and simplicity in sample preparation. Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) and di (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) were selected for analysis because they have been frequently detected in cosmetics and consistently reported as endocrine disruptors in humans and animals. Internal standard method using two deuterium substitutes (DBP-d₄, DEHP-d₄) as the internal standard was also used. The results of ‘Method validation' showed the capabilities of this method for the routine analysis of phthalates at the ppm level. The recovery ranges were between 95 % and 106.1 %, and relative standards deviations (RSD) were less than 3.9 % in fortified nail lacquer and hair spray samples at the concentration of 25 μg/g.

Key Words

cosmetics, dibutyl phthalate, di (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate, gas chromatography with mass spectrometric detector, method validation

안상미 Sang Mi An , 이미영 Mi Young Lee , 백지훈 Ji Hwoon Baek , 함혜인 Hyein Ham , 부용출 Yong Chool Boo , 고재숙 Jae-sook Koh

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Abstract

The safety of cosmetics or cosmetic ingredients on human skin is generally evaluated by visual assessment but some early subtle skin changes may not be noticed by the naked eyes. Thus, the present study was conducted to detect skin reactions induced by mildly irritating cosmetic ingredients by using a laser Doppler perfusion imager (LDPI) method that measures blood flow, a vapometer^® that measure strans epidermal water loss (TEWL), and a spectrophotometer that measures the skin color as the erythema values (a^*). Visual assessment showed that all tested oils and humectants except propylene glycol belong to the low skin irritation ranges (grades 0+ to 2.9+) while all tested surfactants and propylene glycol belong to the moderate-to strong-skin irritation ranges (grades 3+ to 5+). Among three instrumental methods, TEWL assessment appeared to be more sensitive than spectrophotometric or LDPI method and suitable for the detection of subtle skin response invisible to the naked eye (grades 0+ to 2.9+). Skin reactions of grade 3+ to 5+ could be detected by all three instrumental methods. In conclusion, the current study suggested that the sub-clinical skin reactions due to mild irritants contained in cosmetics can be best assessed by TEWL measurements.

Key Words

sub-clinical skin reaction, mild irritants, transepidermal water loss

정보경 Bo-kyung Jung , 박원희 Woon-hee Park , 김동규 Dong-gyu Kim , 최은정 Eun-jung Choi , 김연천 Yeon-cheon Kim , 황인숙 In-sook Hwang , 채영주 Young-zoo Chae

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Abstract

Formaldehyde is commonly present in cosmetic products as an ingredient intended to preserve cosmetic raw materials or as a liberated product from other formaldehyde-releasing preservatives. Since even low level of formaldehyde can elicit a dermatological reactions in sensitized individuals, there has been a tendency to restrict and regulate the use of formaldehyde in cosmetic products. In this study, we determined formaldehyde content in 114 commercial cosmetic products such as packs and masks. Formaldehyde was detected at the level ranging from 0.3 to 9.7 μg/mL (ppm) in 36 % of the tested cosmetic products. We investigated formaldehyde content of twelve products specifying to contain formaldehyde-releasing preservatives on their labels. In eleven of ten imidazolidinyl urea-containing and two 1,3-Dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DMDM hyantoin)-containing products, average of 1.7 μg/mL (ppm) formaldehyde level was detected. The formaldehyde levels detected in our tested products are low when compared with the maximum authorised concentration 0.2 % (2000 ppm) of formaldehyde in cosmetics according to the Korean Food and Drug Administration notice.

Key Words

formaldehyde, formaldehyde-releasing, cosmetic products, dermatological, preservatives

김수지 Su Ji Kim , 박진오 Jino Park , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In the present study, the antioxidative properties, inhibitory activity on tyrosinase, and active components of Eriobotrya japonica (E. japonica) leaf extract were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC₅₀) of extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf was in the order 50 % ethanol extract (22.625 μg/mL) < ethyl acetate fraction (6.75) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (5.06). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of fraction/extracton ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescenceassay were investigated. OSC₅₀ of the ethyl acetate fraction, deglycosylated aglycone fraction, and ethanol extract were 0.75, 0.79, and 1.61 μg/mL, respectively. The cellular protective effects of E. japonica leaf extract on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The protective effects of extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf were increased in a in a concentration dependent manner (5 ∼ 50 μg/mL). Especially, τ50 of ethyl acetate fraction at concentrations of 10 μg/mL and 50 μg/mL showed the most protective effects at 390.8 min and 1471.5 min. The inhibitory effect (IC₅₀) on tyrosinase of E. japonica leaf extracts was higher than arbutin, known as a skin-whitening agent. The order of inhibitory effects was acetate fraction (75.25 μg/mL) < 50 % extract (74.1) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction (43.35). TLC of the ethyl acetate fraction showed 7 bands (EJL 1 ∼ EJL 7). HPLC of the aglycone fraction exhibited 2 peaks, kaempferol and quercetin. The amounts of kaempferol and quercetin were 53.7 and 46.3 %. respectively. Therefore, The amounts of kaempferol and its glucoside were a little bit higher than quercetin and its glucoside in E. japonica leaf extract. Accordingly, these findings suggest that extracts/fractions of E. japonica leaf can function as antioxidants in biological systems, especially skin exposed to UV radiation, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Thus, the extract/fraction of E. japonica leaf may be used in novel functional cosmetics as antioxidants against skin photoaging.

Key Words

Eriobotrya japonica, skin, antioxidant, component analysis, reactive oxygen species

남희승 Hee Seung Nam , 김은현 Eun-hyun Kim , 김수연 Su Yeon Kim , 이현이 Hyun-e Lee , 홍지연 Jiyun Hong , 이재국 Jae Guk Lee , 조성태 Sung Tai Cho , 조양환 Yang Hwan Cho , 윤혜영 Hye-young Yun , 백광진 Kwang Jin Baek , 권년수 Nyoun Soo Kwon , 민영실 Young Sil Min , 박경찬 Kyoung-chan Park , 김동석 Dong-seok Kim

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Abstract

In the present study, we investigated the effects of dipeptides on melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells. It was found that WV (Trp+Val), WM (Trp+Met), and CQ (Cys+Gln) decreased melanin production dosedependently. However, dipeptides did not directly inhibit tyrosinase activity, the rate-limiting melanogenic enzyme. Therefore, we further investigated the expression of tyrosinase. Our results showed that α-MSH-induced tyrosinase expression was down-regulated by WV, WM, and CQ. Thus, we propose that WV, WM, and CQ show hypopigmentary activity through tyrosinase down-regulation.

Key Words

α-MSH, dipeptides, melanogenesis, tyrosinase, melanin

주경미 Kyung-mi Joo , 한지연 Ji Yeon Han , 손의동 Eui Dong Son , 남개원 Gae-won Nam , 정혜진 Hye-jin Jeong , 임경민 Kyung-min Lim , 조준철 Jun-cheol Cho

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Abstract

Natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) are hydrophilic and water-soluble components in stratum corneum of the skin. NMFs absorb water from outer environment and enhance the water-holding capacity of stratum corneum and thereby, prevent the dryness and increase flexibility and plasticity of skin. NMFs are mainly composed of amino acids and their metabolites that are produced from the degradation of filaggrin. Here we established a simultaneous quantification method for 22 amino acids in tape-stripped stratum corneum samples using UPLC-PDA. With this method, we analyzed amino acid contents from tape-stripped stratum corneum samples of forearm and forehead regions from 15 healthy volunteers. Amino acid contents of inner (or upper) region were higher than outer (or lower) region of stratum corneum. Amino acid contents of stratum corneum of forearm were higher by 1.5 fold than forehead region. Of note, total amino acid contents were significantly and inversely correlated with trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), an index for skin barrier function. Especially, Ser, Glu, Gly, Ala and Thr were determined to positively affect skin mositurizing activities. In conclusion, we could demonstrate that amino acid contents of stratum corneum are closely linked with skin barrier and moisturizing function, providing an important and fundamental methodology for the study of amino acids in skin physiology.

Key Words

amino acids, human stratum corneum, natural moisturizing factor (NMF), UPLC-PDA

조현남 Hyun-nam Cho , 유동찬 Dong-chan Yoo , 김경란 Kyoung-ran Kim , 변혜정 Hae-jung Byun , 김정현 Jung-hyun Kim , 박혜빈 Hye-bin Park , 방대석 Dae-suk Bang , 양선아 Seun-ah Yang , 강공원 Gong-won Khang , 지광환 Kwang-hwan Jhee

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Abstract

Medicinal herbs have been shown to have protective functions for skin and hair. We investigated the effects of complex of soluble β-cyclodextrin and phytochemicals on the functions of skin and hair. In previous report, we evaluated the safety of supramolecules and found their anti-microbial effects and anti-fungal effect against Gram (+) and Malassezia furfur which is known to cause dandruff. Here we present that functional supramolecules-containing cream promotes the biological skin activity by inducing the collagen formation. And treatment of supramolecules-containing hair tonic increased the rate of hair growth of mouse. Taken together, supramolecular cosmetic compounds containing water insoluble phytochemicals and water soluble β-cyclodextrin exhibit the potential ability for hair growth promotion and delaying the aging of skin.

Key Words

phytochemical, cyclodextrin, supramolecule, collagen, hair growth

정문석 Moon Suk Chung , 안종숙 Jong Suk An , 이정만 Jeong Man Lee

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Abstract

This study's purpose is to research the antioxidant power of Calaguala (Polypodium leucotomos, PL) as an oral supplement: Calaguala, a native of Central America, is a fern which belongs to the family polypodiaceae protecting the skin from the ultraviolet and active oxygen free radicals. The total 14 volunteers, each female 7 & male 7, were divided into 2 groups, then exposed to UV for 30 min after taking Calaguala and placebo. The total antioxidant capacity (TAC) was analyzed by taking the blood samples from anticubital vein 3 hours after UV exposure. First, Calaguala siginifcantly decreased the concentration of active oxygen free radicals 4 weeks later. The concentration of active oxygen free radical in PL group declined more than placebo group, when measured 30 min and 3 hours after UV exposure. Second, Calaguala did not significantly increase TAC 4 weeks later, but significantly decreased TAC 3 hours after exposure, when compared with placebo group. Now days, the photo allergy and photo aging caused by air pollution and ozone destruction have drastically increased, and thus the amount of UV radiation reaching the earth's surface increased. The increase of active free oxygen radicals resulted in accelerating the diseases and aging. The first superficial protecting protection by reflection & dispersion and the second body internal protection by taking oral photo antioxidant such as Calaguala should be continuously researched.

Key Words

Calaguala (Polypodium leucotomos), UV, skin damage, 1) oral supplement, antioxidant effect